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Sujet Manche de basse.comment ca se regle ?

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1 Manche de basse.comment ca se regle ?
Bon toujours avec la meme basse pourrie que je repare sans rien y connaitre...

le manche est un peu bombé... y a peu d espaces entre les cordes et le manche sur la premiere frette, mais beaucoup d espace après...

Je sais pas comment ca se regle...

Certainement avec le bridge, paske y a que ca que je peux modifier, mais je sais pas trop comment m y prendre...
2
Eho jvou koz !
3
Ci dessous un article intéressant
[/quote] How to do Your Own Bass Setups
by John Galt, aka. Doug Wellington (doug@sun1paztcn.wr.usgs.gov)

This article is an excerpt from The Bottom Line, Issue #133, February 9, 1992

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 1992 01:44 MST
From: John Galt <JOHNGALT@CCIT.Arizona.edu>
Subject: How to do your own bass setups.

Hi folks,

I was recently asked how to adjust a bass, so I thought that I would
pass this on to the whole list. This is the procedure that I have
gone through on all of my basses. Feel free to adjust my method to
suit your own preferences. The important thing is to get one system
down and stick to it so that you can duplicate what you have done.
Of course, everyone likes his or her bass setup in a different way,
so the measurements that I use may not be appropriate for your bass
and/or your playing style. Also, your bass may or may not have all
of the adjustments that I am talking about. For instance, not all
basses have neck tilt adjustment screws. For that matter, some
basses don't have bolt on necks anyway. Expect to have to adjust
your bass every time you change string sizes, and also expect that
your bass will change with changes in the weather, unless it is made
of graphite, and then I don't want to hear about it, you lucky dog!

I'll start from scratch here, but you can start at any point in the
procedure. Read the whole thing first before you actually try any of it.
You may want to thoroughly clean your bass if you have the strings off
of it. I like to pay extra attention to the fretboard right next to the
frets. (I couldn't ever be like James Jamerson and not ever clean my bass,
but I do admire his playing!) I have even taken all of my basses completely
apart at least once. OK, so I'm an obsessive, compulsive, anal retentive
kind of guy, what can I say? It was there, and I had to do it.

To adjust your own truss rod, neck tilt, bridge height and intonation,
get a couple tools ready. My method requires a capo, a feeler gauge set,
a machinists 6" steel ruler, a couple of allen wrenches and a couple
screwdrivers. I bought a cheap capo for a couple bucks - don't bother
with the fancy $18 ones. I had the ruler, wrenches and screwdrivers
because I used to be a machinist.

First, loosen up the screws that hold the neck on. Then use the allen
wrench to back off the neck tilt adjustment screw that is accessed from
the hole in the plate the neck screws go through. After you have
loosened the tilt screw, re-tighten the neck screws. The tilt screw
should still be completely slack after the others are tight. Don't
worry, we'll come back to it later.

Next, string up the bass with the set of strings that you will be using.
Try to only have about three turns of the string on each tuning peg. Tune
up your bass to the tuning you will be using. If the pickups look like
they are too close to the strings, use a screwdriver to lower them. Now,
put the capo on the first fret. We will be using the strings as a
straightedge. To get as accurate a measurement as possible, hold the
bass in the same position as you play it. Gravity really can change
the relief on these big thangs! Hold down the string at the last fret
(for me, the 22nd) and measure the distance between the string and the
fret at the half-way point on the finger board (for me, the 8th). This
will tell you how much relief the neck has. I like to see about .014"
between the string and the fret. I use a set of flat feeler gauges to
tell. Choose one and see if you can fit it in between the string and the
fret without lifting the string. If the distance is less than .014",
then you have to loosen the truss rod. If the distance is more than
.014", then you have to tighten the truss rod. Only tighten or loosen
the truss rod nut about an eighth of a turn at a time, no more. If you
have an old P-bass (I have one), you'll have to actually remove the
neck from the body to do this properly.

Once the relief is set, take off the capo and pick up the machinists
ruler. Hold the ruler on the last fret of the neck (closest to the
bridge) and measure the distance between the string and the fret.
This tells you how high your action is. I like to see 5/32" on my
low B and 4/32" on my G string. If the distance is more than 5/32"
then you have to lower the saddles on the bridge. If the distance is
less than 5/32" then you have to raise the saddles on the bridge. Use
the correct allen wrench and adjust the screws on each saddle evenly. I
usually turn each screw 1/2 turn and recheck the measurements. The most
important thing to accomplish here is to make the strings be an equal
height off of the neck. Don't adjust the saddles so that they are bottomed
out on the face of the bridge. If they won't go down far enough, then
adjust them to a reasonable point and make all the strings as even as you
can, matching the lowest one. (For me the lowest one is always the G.)

Once the strings are all even, decide if they are still too high for
your style of playing. If they are too high, then the neck tilt
adjustment screw needs to be tightened. Loosen the neck screws, and
tighten the neck tilt screw a little bit. Same as the truss rod nut,
1/8 turn is a good starting point. Now tighten the neck screws again
and recheck the measurement. Repeat this until the height of the strings
is to your liking. At this point, you should be comfortable with the way
the bass plays. If not, then go back and repeat whatever is necessary of
this whole procedure to get to a happy medium. Don't forget, the lower
the action and the less relief the neck has, the more possibility there
is for fret noise. On the other hand, too much relief and too high an
action can be hard to play and, in excess, can cause your neck to warp,
especially if you use heavy strings. If you have a bass without an
adjustment screw, like my old P-bass, then you can stick a little piece
of something under the end of the neck before you bolt it on to the body.
A piece of match book cover is actually quite good.

Whoa, we're not done yet. Two more things. Adjust your pickups so that
they are at a point where they won't get sanded down from contact with
the strings, yet aren't so far away that they lose volume. Be careful
though, that you don't put the pickups so close that the magnets in
them pull on the strings, damping out the sustain. The thicker your
strings are, the closer the pic

[quote]
et sinon :
http://www.mrgearhead.net/faq/basssetup.html
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/pagelist.html
lis un maximum de choses avant de t'attaquer au triturage de ton manche ...tu risques de faire plus de conneries qu'autre chose si tu ne sais pas ce que tu fais....
et sinon à moins d'etre total fauché, quand on sait pas faire , un luthier où un magasin avec un vendeur/réparateur un minimum compétent c'est quand même une bonne solution....
4
Ok, merci mais bon ma basse au mieux je la revends 50 €, ...Le luthier lui il coute minimum 50 €

après, ton exposé technique sur les basses ou y a 50 sortes de reglages, merci mais c pas pour moi...
en plus les mots techniques en anglais... Merci bien
5
Ben je peux rien pour toi alors....
bon courage avec ta planche à cordes...
6
Salut, je peux peut etre te donner qques conseils...
1_ si ton manche est bombé, il va falloir le remettre à plat (clef dans le manche :oo: reglage à faire les cordes détendues ss peine de peter la tige du manche)
ne t'occupe pas des cordes qui frisent
2_ une fois que ton manche est réglé a peut pres, il faut jouer chaque case l'une apres l'autre et remonter le pontet si ça frise (si ça frise sur aucune case, tu peux essayer de le descendre)
3_ enfin, derniere étape, régler tes longueurs de cordes pour que ta basse sonne juste;
(à faire avec un accordeur)
accorde ta basse, ensuite tu joue l'harmonique naturelle de chaque corde (12eme case) puis la corde à vide ou l'octave au dessus (encore la 12eme :clin: ). si les deux ont la même valeur sur l'accordeur, rien toucher, par contre si les valeurs sont différentes, tu devras visser ou devisser la visse (vive le français) qui maintient les pontets.
l'étape 1 est souvent assez longue et il faut y aller doucement, surtout ne forcer sur la visse qui actionne la tige ss aucun prétexte! si ça bloque, c que tu es en début ou en fin de course.
tu devras réaccorder plusieurs fois ta basse pour verifier l'alignement de ton manche avec la tension des cordes (d'ailleurs j'y pense, si tu compte mettre des cordes neuves avec un nouveau tirant, fais tes réglages avec sinon ça sert a rien)
derniere chose, pour te donner une idée, l'espace entre la touche et les cordes au niveau de la derniere frette est généralement de 3mm, si c'est au dessus, là ya probeme.
voilà! :D:
7
Salut
Guitariste et accessoirement bassiste j'ai beau savoir jouer un minimum je ne comprend et ne connais que très très peu du vocabulaire du parfait luthier d'intérieur ! :bravo:
Par exemple : Pontet ? :8O: Touche ?

Si quelqu'un peut me donner un lien ou me faire un vague récapitulatif des termes techniques ça serait vraiment très sympa !!! Merci beaucoup.
8
Alors voilà un petit croquis, ça zigzag un peu partout et c'est fait avec les moyens du bord...
[/img]https://fr.audiofanzine.com/img/membres/normal/5/5/5503.jpg[/img]