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L'importance des bois en lutherie est surfaite.

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Sujet de la discussion L'importance des bois en lutherie est surfaite.
"L'importance des bois en lutherie est surfaite...."

Avant que le débat soit lancé, merci de lire ceci:

-On parle ici uniquement de bois utilisés pour le corps des guitares électriques.

Il n'est donc pas question de manche ou de guitares acoustiques.

Maintenant que ces éléments sont posés, on peut aller de l'avant.



Étant passionné de lutherie et de guitares électriques custom j'ai déjà suivit la création de plusieurs instruments par plusieurs luthiers renommés.
C'est lors d'une récente visite a l'excellent luthier suisse Patrick Hufschmid que le projet est né de l'esprit "no rules" du créateur...
Voici ses mots:

"I always wanted to build a guitar like this! It's a fantastic opportunity for me to break the myth of many rules of luthery (guitar building). It's my own belief that there is no such thing as 'bad tonewood'.
So, I want this guitar to be deliberately extreme! The first step in breaking these rules was to go to the hardware store and select some private stock AAAAAAAAAAAAA grade knotted spruce 22mm boards and laminate then together. Boy, that felt good!
I then built the guitar professionally, of course, because this is no joke, I'm very serious. I intend to demonstrate that it can and will sound and play as beautifully as my other professional models.
Routing into laminated spruce is not easy as the wood tends to tear off. This means that the tools must be extremely sharp.
I created my own stain to which I have added some locally grown wine.
Obviously, I can't use this wood for building the neck, so the neck is solid one piece mahogany and the fingerboard is solid ebony.
I will keep you guys updated! BTW, this guitar is already sold and the customer requested that I mount 2 Benedetto Jazz pickups inside it."

En d'autres termes, ce luthier est en train de construite une guitare de type LesPaul avec un manche en acajou et une touche ébène, et un corps venant tout droit de magasin tel que Ikea ou Mr Bricolage!!

Et le pari de Hufschmid est que l'importance sonore que l'on accorde aux bois du corps est surfaite, et que même avec un bois tout ce qu'il y a de plus banal, ca va sonné!!!

Pour ceux qui sont ouvert d'esprit et qui souhaitent suivre ce projet, voici le blog de Patrick Hufschmid:
http://blogs.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=blog.view&friendID=73885369&blogID=443174661
Afficher le sujet de la discussion
981
Citation de TC :
x
Hors sujet :
Cependant, si la mammy a officié dans l'US Air Force, il est d'usage de nuancer voire reconsidérer son point de vue.



Fabsqueak :
Citation :
Quand j'y pense, en parlant de densité, j'ai un gros exemple concret avec ma Nighthawk.
La Custom et la Standart, mêmes caractéristiques sur le papier. Mais totalement différente.

Mouaiiis….. :??: Sans même parler de la différence de poids, la différence des touches Ebène / Palissandre entre largement en compte.
Cependant je ne suis pas convaincu de l'utilité d'ouvrir tout de suite un topic : " L''importance du choix des bois de la touche a t'elle une importance sur l'importance surfaite des bois en lutherie ?" :mdr:


et pourtaannnnttt on sait combien le manche a son importance dans le son..
J'en parlais avec Polo Reed Smith, ce matin au pti dej



Pour ceux qui seraient anglophobe, il dit que cela dépend de l'os du graphiste, mac ou pc..

[ Dernière édition du message le 15/10/2014 à 13:13:01 ]

982
L'importance des avis sur AF est surfait. :oops2:

"To boldly go where no man has gone before."

983
Dont acte :oops2:

Mépriser, insulter, moquer et rejeter autrui parce-qu'on est pas d'accord ou qu'on ne comprend pas ses opinions, son point de vue et sa différence . Voilà ce qui me navre .

984
Don't act. :oops2:

"To boldly go where no man has gone before."

985

Citation de : sonicsnap

D'après ce que j'ai lu, le tilleul et l'aulne sont équivalents, avec un son assez neutre et équilibré, à mi-chemin entre le frêne (qui sonne sec et très précis), et l'acajou (qui sonne plus chaud et un peu flou - ce pourquoi Gibson équilibre le son avec une table en érable.) Par contre, il y a du bon et du mauvais tilleul, pas tant du point de vu du son que de la solidité de l'instrument. En effet, certains tilleuls sont très mous, ce qui donne un instrument particulièrement fragile. Pour voir si on a un bon ou un mauvais tilleul, il faut visser à fond, par exemple les vis du pickguard. Si ça fini par tourner dans le vide, on a un mauvais tilleul. Si on arrive à serrer à fond, c'est du bon tilleul.

Il faut régler la visseuse sur quel cran ?

 

Ola !!!

986
Full tork avec option frappeuse si possible :oops2:
987
je peux savoir pourquoi vous finissez vos phrases par :oops2: ??

Pour recarder le sujet je vous propose une mise a plat, on efface tout et on recommence.

"guitar's wood is one of the last steps to creating that ideal tone you've been looking for. Different woods give off different sounds, which add to your guitar's ambience, tone, durability, and ability to age with time. Along with that, it also adds an incredible amount of sale value to that $4,000 guitar you see in the window. The type, and quality, of the wood in your guitar is perhaps the most important factor in deciding the price of the guitar. Understanding Wood First of all, to understand woods, the first rule is "quality first". You can have your guitar made out of mahogany if you want, but if the mahogany wood came from an area with a bad growth pattern, or diseases, you're not getting what you pay for, no matter what you are being charged. It is safe to say that most companies spend a great deal of time finding high quality wood, otherwise Paul Reed Smith wouldn't charge $3,00 for a Custom 24 model. But when you are buying into the lesser known brands that cost less, but supposedly sound as great as high end guitars, you should be weary of what you're getting. Always give guitars a good play in the store, to make sure that you're not getting a dud. Knock lightly on different parts of the guitar to ensure that the wood is solid, and there aren't any major dead parts. Some dead parts are merely part of wood. If you hear one part of a guitar giving off a slightly less clear tone, don't be alarmed. If there were no dead parts in your guitar's wood, that would mean it is classified as "10-top", meaning the wood is perfect. Paul Reed Smith is one company that offers 10-top quality wood in their guitars as an option - for a very real price increase. When knocking lightly on the guitar, look for even tone quality. If you hear a muddy, dead sound, put the guitar back. If you hear a nice, solid crisp knock all over, you've got some nice wood in your hands. If the guitar's wood has an overall good quality, you should classify it as a keeper. Definitely try this practise out when you have an option of picking between two or more "identical" guitars. Different Tones Wood tones are not the most important factor in deciding tone, but they do play a large role. The same two high quality pickups in the same guitar shape would sound entirely different if one guitar were made out of plywood and the other out of maple. So, in the end, don't limit yourself to thinking that a plywood guitar will sound the same as a mahogany guitar, but don't think you need a 10-top mahogany guitar to sound great. Don't make compromises on quality, but don't spend all your money to get the right wood. Neck material and fretboard material also help create their part in tones. Maple is a common wood for necks, as it is stiff, and creates a bright tone. Rosewood and maple are used for fretboards. Rosewood creates a warm tone, but ebony, a slightly less common wood, is very heavy and creates a bright, hard attack. Mahogany is also sometimes used in necks, as well as bodies, for its classic warm feel. Be wary, though, sometimes getting that great mahogany tone creates a lot of weight in the guitar. Always check out the weight of the guitar standing up and sitting down when playing it in the store - sometimes you don't want to dragged down by your guitar when playing a long gig. Woods
Alder

Alder is used commonly because of its light weight, most commonly in Stratocasters. Has an excellent clean tone. It is commonly a tan colour without many distinctive grain lines. Not a good choice for clear finishes.
Ash

Ash is available in two types: Northern (hard) or Southern (soft). Hard Ash is popular because of its hardness, with bright tone and long sustaining qualities. Soft Ash (aka Swamp Ash) is much softer. Many '50s era Fender guitars were built with this wood. It has a much warmer feel than Hard Ash. Both variations have an open grain, meaning that a lot of lacquer is required to seal the wood. Excellent for clear finishes.
Maple

Maple is a very popular wood for necks and fretboards. Easily identifiable because of its bright tone, characteristic grain patterns and moderate weight. It's tonal characteristics include good sustain with plenty of bite. It is about as dense as hard ash, but is much easier to finish. Very durable.
Mahogany

Mahogany's weight and density are similar to maple, however mahogany carries are more mellow, soft and warm tone to it. Great sustain, but not well suited to clear finishes. Les Paul guitars are made with Honduran mahogany.
Rosewood

Rosewood is one of the heaviest woods available. Strat bodies made out of rosewood will weigh in at over 6 pounds, and remember that Stratocasters are quite small guitars. The sound is very warm, although the high end sounds are dampened. Finishes can be a little difficult to apply. Usually reserved for fretboards only.
Walnut

Walnut's tone is slightly warmer than maple, although it still has good sustain. Walnut can look excellent with oil finishes, and is moderately heavy, but still lighter than maple.
Basswood

Basswood is a very light wood - even lighter than alder. It is very soft, and should not be subjected to much abuse. Clear finishes are not very desirable. However, basswood has a nice warm, soft tone.
Ebony

Ebony is commonly used in fingerboards. It is quite heavy, but has a very bright attack, good sustain, and excellent durability compared to rosewood. In Conclusion In conclusion, choosing your guitar wood should be based on playing guitars in store. Try playing two similar guitars made out of different materials on the same amplifier. With some experience, you should be able to hear the difference in the tones. Remember that on necks, different finishes can affect how fast you can move your hand along the neck, so don't be put off from a certain type of wood because of one guitar. Remember that quality is a very important element in wood, so if you play one mahogany guitar that sounds bad, don't think all guitars may be like that. Also, body shapes can affect tone - an arched top guitar will sound different than a flat top guitar. Variety is the key to finding out, first hand, the subtle nuances between wood tones "

Je suis bien sur l'auteur de ce text que je n'ai pas copié du tout depuis ultimate-guitar.com

[ Dernière édition du message le 15/10/2014 à 15:10:20 ]

988
tu l'as peut-être copié chez PRS alors? Très bonne marque au demeurant
989
990
cravate très démodée, si je puis me permettre

[ Dernière édition du message le 15/10/2014 à 15:27:01 ]